Cat shows licensed by the Governing Council of the Cat Fancy are closely governed by rules for the protection of both exhibitors and exhibits. It is therefore essential for every exhibitor to buy a copy of the GCCF rules before entering a show.

All official GCCF publications are available for sale from the GCCF office at 4-6 Penel Orlieu, Bridgwater, Somerset TA6 3PG. As well as the rules, these include the constitution, standards of points, list of breed numbers, stud books, show list, list of affiliated clubs, list of judges and list of club welfare officers. Pedigree cats must be registered with the GCCF at least three weeks before they are shown and if they have been transferred, this must also have taken place at least three weeks before the show. Applications for registrations, transfers, certified pedigrees or prefixes must be sent to the office. Cats registered with the GCCF may never be shown at non-GCCF shows without special permission.

The most important shows are championship shows. All breed championship shows cover every pedigree breed which is recognised by the GCCF: each breed which has full or provisional recognition has its own open class while breeds which only have preliminary recognition may be seen in assessment classes. There are also specialist championship shows which cover a single breed or group of breeds. Many shows have classes for non-pedigree cats which, of course, are not registered. Some also put on classes for half-pedigree household pets.

Sanction shows are run exactly like championship shows, but cats do not compete for challenge certificates, while exemption shows are usually small shows where, again, challenge certificates are not awarded. The novice exhibitor would find these smaller shows excellent for introducing their cats and kittens to the show world, particularly as the judges often have a little more time to spare after completing their classes and are more than willing to give helpful advice to beginners.

Entering a show   

Before you can enter a show you will need a schedule and entry form. The GCCF show list gives names and addresses of show managers to whom you should send a stamped addressed envelope with your request for a schedule. When you receive the schedule, study it carefully and decide which classes your cat is eligible to enter.

An adult open class is the one in which a challenge certificate can be awarded at a championship show. There are separate open classes for males and females of all fully recognised breeds. Three challenge certificates under three different judges make the cat a Champion. Cats with provisional recognition compete for intermediate certificates and cats with preliminary status may be awarded merit certificates.

A Champion may be shown in the champion of champions class, where it competes for a grand challenge certificate, as well as, or instead of, its open class. Three grand challenge certificates under three different judges makes a cat a grand Champion. The same rules apply to neutered cats, but the title of Premier is used instead of Champion. A neuter can only compete in classes for neuters and these are clearly set out in shows schedules. Kittens, including non-pedigree kittens, may not be shown under fourteen weeks of age. A kitten becomes an adult at nine months of age (ie. a kitten born on 1st January becomes an adult on 1st October). All adult non-pedigree exhibits must be neutered.

There are various miscellaneous classes, definitions of which you will find in the schedule, for instance, novice classes for a cat, kitten or neuter which has not won a first prize at a show under GCCF rules. Prizes won as kittens do not count when it becomes an adult, and prizes won as an entire kitten no longer count when the cat is neutered.

After you have completed your entry form, you must check it carefully before sending it to the show manager of the show you are attending. Make a note of the shows you enter, as it is a breach of the rules to enter two shows less than two weeks apart. If you have more than one cat, also note which one you have entered so that you do not take the wrong one to the show. Send a stamped addressed envelope with your show entry so that the show manager can acknowledge the receipt of your entry and you can be certain that it has arrived.

Show standards at championship shows are extremely high, so do study your standard of points carefully before you decide to exhibit. If a cat or kitten is obviously only 'pet type' it is a waste of time and money entering a top show and can only lead to disappointment. However, the novice has to learn, so try your luck if you consider that you have a fair type cat or kitten and do not be too disappointed if you are not successful at your first attempt.

Preparing your cat for a show   

A kitten can be trained at home to get it used to showing, using a pen similar to the type it will be placed in at a show. Put the kitten in the pen for a short period only at the start of training and gradually increase the time in the pen until it is happy in there for the eight hours required at a show. If the cat or kitten is nervous in a pen on its own at home, a show would probably terrify it.

The kitten can also be trained to travel by leaving the basket around for it to investigate, then taking it for very short journeys in the car so that a trip in a basket is nothing unusual and has no unpleasant implications. Cats must always be under full control when travelling in a car; it is illegal to have an unrestrained animal in a car because it is dangerous. If the car is in an accident the cat will be terrified and, if unrestrained, may contribute to the driver's difficulties before escaping from the car and disappearing. Cats are also keen to explore and many cats have arrived at shows with ample evidence that there is plenty of grease and dirt under the car seats; this is most embarrassing for the owner as it destroys all the careful grooming and preparation and gives little chance of returning the cat to a suitable state before judging starts. Do not use newspaper in a basket to travel to a show, the newsprint may stain the cat.

It is a good idea to ask friends and visitors to handle the kitten, taking it out of the pen and putting it back so that it gets accustomed to handling by strangers. You should also open the kitten's mouth (giving it a treat afterwards so that it does not think that mouth opening equates with worming pills!) and look in its ears so that it will accept both of these procedures calmly at vetting in. Always wear a white coat for these training sessions so that the cat becomes used to it and does not associate the garment with its veterinary surgeon!

Grooming   

Any cat, whether longhaired or shorthaired, should be groomed regularly, but intensive preparation may be necessary in the two weeks immediately prior to a show, remembering always that a cat's appearance is largely dependent on its state of health. Good quality food and, if necessary, a multivitamin preparation, should produce gleaming coats and bright eyes. It is never advisable to show a cat which is not in tip-top condition - not only is it unlikely to do well, but it is more likely to become ill. If you do some work in advance you may well be commended by the judges on the preparation and presentation of your cat. Preparation for longhairs and shorthairs is very different - see below.

Grooming longhaired cats

Persian cats need daily grooming with a wide-toothed metal comb (no more than 10 teeth to the inch) and a natural bristle brush. Nylon brushes can build up static electricity in the fur and encourage tangling. This daily grooming is important, to remove dead hair and any knots and to keep the skin healthy; it has the additional benefit of preventing the cat from ingesting loose hairs with the consequent formation of hair-balls in the stomach. A daily brush and comb need take no longer than five minutes; ignore the coat for three days and it will take more than 15 minutes to restore the coat to its former glory. If the coat does get matted this will cause the cat discomfort and often the only remedy is the use of scissors; use scissors with curved blades and ensure that the points are facing away from the cat. A cat's skin is extremely mobile so take care that it is not snipped along with the fur.

During the winter months when the Persian coat is thick and heavy and the weather wet, special attention should be paid to the task of grooming. If the cat has been out and returns damp with twigs or leaves in the coat, do not attempt to groom it until the coat has dried out, then comb gently and the twigs will fall easily from the coat.

A kitten should be groomed from an early age so that it becomes accustomed to the routine and learns to enjoy it. Be gentle but firm. Stand the kitten on a table facing away from you, making sure that it is on a non-slip surface so that it feels secure. Start at the head and comb gently 'against the grain'. For the sides of the body, lift the fur and comb downwards a little at a time. Brush from tail to head and upwards on the sides, flicking the coat up so that each hair is separate.

Areas for special attention are behind the ears and elbows, on the flanks and abdomen and under the tail. Any knots should be teased out very carefully to avoid leaving any bald or sparse patches. Once a week, whilst grooming pale coloured cats, part the coat and sprinkle with baby powder, then brush out all the powder. This acts as a dry shampoo and removes excess grease and dirt from the fur.

On the day before a show the cat should be given a powdering and a final grooming. It is most important that no trace of powder remains in the coat when the judge examines the cat as this will lead to disqualification. Darker coloured cats will rarely be improved by powder as the least trace may mar the colour or markings.

A cat may need bathing a week before the show, especially if it is a pale colour. If the bathing is carried out nearer to the show date the coat may be too soft and floppy. Use a mild baby shampoo and make sure that it is all rinsed from the fur before drying. Never use a shampoo which contains any colouring matter as any trace of artificial colour in the coat will lead to disqualification and possible disciplinary action; if in doubt, avoid any shampoos which are said to be suitable for a particular colour of cat.

After rinsing, rub the cat in warm towels and, using a hairdryer or fan heater, dry the cat thoroughly, combing the coat all the time. Start using the hairdryer on kittens when they are quite young as an older cat may be terrified by the noise and the rush of warm air when it meets it for the first time. After this special grooming the cat should be confined to the house until the day of the show. If it has a tendency to dribble when nervous, a little 'bib' will help to prevent it wetting the coat on the way to the show but, again, it should be accustomed to this in advance.

Semi-longhaired cats do not require the same attention as Persians, especially during the summer, but they do require regular combing and brushing to keep their coats in good order and free from knots. If the coat has become dirty or greasy a bath may be necessary before a show, allowing time for the coat to settle down afterwards in those breeds where it should be silky and flowing instead of fluffed out.

Grooming shorthaired cats   

It is considerably easier to prepare a shorthaired cat for the show. However, a pale coloured cat may still require a bath if the coat has become stained, the bathing and drying being the same as for a longhair except that there is no need to comb the coat whilst drying it.

Siamese, Burmese and Orientals can be given a bran bath two days before a show; this makes the coat gleam as it removes dirt and excess grease. To give a bran bath, 6ozs bran (such as that used for horses) should be warmed thoroughly in a moderate oven. The bran should then be rubbed into the coat, rubbing against the growth of the coat, left for a few minutes and then gently brushed out. White or pale coloured cats may benefit from a little talcum powder, but all traces of it must be removed before the show.

Some cats do not need a full bath but have grubby areas such as unwashed noses or feet, chin acne or greasy tails. These areas will need special attention before a show to ensure that they are scrupulously clean. Acne and greasy tails should have regular attention to prevent a build-up which may lead to hair loss and rejection from the show.

Eyes, ears and claws   

Caring for the coat is a major part of the grooming procedure, but eyes, ears and claws should not be forgotten. Some cats may produce a little pinkish-brown matter in the inner corners of their eyes, so long as the lids and whites of the eyes are not inflamed, this is quite normal, but if allowed to accumulate can look very unattractive. To prevent this from happening, dissolve a little boracic powder or salt in warm water, gently bathe the eyes with a very mild solution and pat dry with cotton wool. Persians may have problems with tear drainage and there are a number of products on the market which may be used to remove tear staining from the fur.

The ears can be cleaned gently with cotton wool without probing deeply, to remove dust and slight wax. If a cat has dark wax or a lot of debris in the ears it is probably suffering from ear mites and would be rejected from a show. Veterinary help must always be sought in cases of ear mites.

Most cats strop and nibble at their nails to keep them trim but some are more efficient at it than others. Old cats, and cats with dental problems are particularly likely to have overgrown nails, sometimes to such an extent that the nails grow round into the pads. Obviously if this happens, the cat will need veterinary attention, but it will not happen if you keep the nails trimmed. Cats which strop on the furniture also need their nails trimmed regularly; not only does this reduce the damage but the cat finds the stropping less satisfactory.

All cats should have their nails trimmed before a show. Not only can long nails catch in the show blanket, making it more difficult to remove the cat from its pen, but a wriggly cat is more likely to scratch the judge or steward if the nails are long. You can, of course, take your cat to the veterinary surgeon to have its nails cut but it is a relatively simple job provided you know where to cut.

Press gently on the top of the toe to push the nail forward out of its sheath. It is easy to see the 'quick' which contains the nerves and blood vessels; this shows up as a pink triangle within the nail. Cut off the semi-transparent hook of the claw beyond the quick, taking care not to cut so close that you pinch the quick as this will hurt the cat. Use strong sharp scissors or nail clippers, as blunt ones will crush instead of cutting smoothly and will therefore put pressure on the quick.

Try to cut all the nails in one operation, but if the cat struggles it is better to abandon the job until another day. Do not forget to cut the dewclaws at the sides of the front paws. If you have a non-pedigree polydactyl (with extra toes) check for extra nails between toes as these cannot wear down and can cause severe problems.

Vetting in   

All cats and kittens must have completed a course of vaccination against feline infectious enteritis, feline viral rhinotracheitis and feline calicivirus ("cat 'flu") and have their booster vaccinations up-to-date before being shown. Vaccinations must have been given, by a veterinary surgeon, at least one week before the date of the show. Take your vaccination certificate to the show with you. The GCCF does not accept 'homoeopathic vaccinations' for show purposes.

All cats are examined by a veterinary surgeon before being allowed into a show and if they are not perfectly healthy they are liable to be rejected. Examine your cat thoroughly the day before the show and again on the morning of the show; if it is not completely healthy you must not take it. Any exhibitor whose cat is rejected from a show will receive a rejection form - read this carefully.

There are four sections under which a cat may be rejected; section A covers such reason as fleas, wounds, cats showing signs of having been given drugs (NEVER sedate a cat for a show!), pregnancy, lactation, absence of two testicles in the scrotum in an adult male, poor condition or undersize, distressed cats or cats which cannot be handled at vetting in. There is no need to get a clearance certificate for cats rejected under this section, but the cat cannot be shown again until the condition for which it was rejected is no longer present.

Section B is for cats rejected for ear mites or dirty ears; section C covers cats which show signs of infectious diseases, and section D is for cats rejected for skin lesions which might be due to ringworm. Cats rejected under these three sections will need to be examined by the owner's own veterinary surgeon and the owner will have to obtain a clearance certificate before showing any cats again. If your cat is rejected under section B, C or D you must read the rejection form very carefully and take both it and the clearance form to your veterinary surgeon. These forms set out clearly what is required in order to complete the clearance procedure.

When you enter your cat for a show you must sign the declaration on the show entry form. This has sections concerning the ownership of the cat, its entry in other shows and its health, as well as an agreement to abide by the ruling of the examining veterinary surgeon at a show. Read part (c) carefully and if your cat has been in contact with any sick cats, do not take it to a show until the stipulated quarantine period has been completed. The wording of this section also appears in section 4 of the GCCF rules.

Procedure during the show   

You may be sent your "tally" or you may collect it at the entrance to the show on the day itself. The tally is a disc with your cat's pen number on it (and you will also find a card with this number on the pen itself). The tally should be hung round the cat's neck with narrow white tape, ribbon or elastic; ensure it fits comfortably and does not cause any discomfort, make sure that it is not tied too loosely or the lower jaw may get entangled, with quite unpleasant results. Many shows permit you to hang the tally on the front of the pen instead, but it should be available to be put round the cat's neck if necessary.

Take particular care in penning your cat. Disinfect with a suitable disinfectant and make certain that the pen is secure. Read the schedule and the GCCF rules very thoroughly and please abide by them. Only plain white blankets or white vetbed-type material with a green or white backing are allowed, which means that lacy blankets or fur fabric will lead to disqualification.

A cat or kitten shows to great advantage in a comfortable pen, and a hot water bottle or heat reflecting material hidden underneath the blankets gives added comfort unless the weather is very hot. In very hot weather longhaired cats, in particular, may be more comfortable if a well-wrapped ice pack, with non-toxic contents, is hidden under the blankets. The number of blankets needed will vary; a longhaired adult in the summer may only need a single blanket spread on the floor of its pen, whereas a Siamese kitten in winter will need at least two substantial blankets to create a warm and comfortable 'nest' in which to relax.

Drinking water, in a white container, must always be provided, but food must not be left in the pen during judging. Cats and kittens may be fed at lunchtime and this is a good opportunity to replace soiled litter trays and tidy up the pen. The litter tray must also be white although you can use whichever litter the cat is accustomed to.

Do not stand near your pen whilst your cat is being judged; this is embarassing to the judge and stewards and may lead to disqualification. If you wish to consult a judge, wait until he or she has finished all classes and then ask your questions - do not 'demand' information. You will find your polite questions answered willingly, but do remember that the judge has had a long tiring day. If your cat does not show well, is nervous of being handled or appears terrified, do not continue to show it. If you return to your pen at lunchtime to find that your cat is upset, ask the show manager if you can withdraw it from its other classes; if it is really distressed you may be allowed to take it home instead of waiting until the end of the show but, of course, there will be no refund of entry money for the classes you miss. Some cats love their days at shows, others hate it. Any cat which bites a judge or steward will be reported for this and if it bites on a second occasion it may never be shown again.

We hope that your cat has a happy and successful show career.